Huaraz, Peru
"Los turistas son sus amigos," or "Tourists are your friends," read a sign just outside the mountain town of
Huaraz. Whether small-town Peruvians believe the saying or not, you wouldn't be able to tell--there was an overarching warmth projected by the locals here. Greet or smile at a passerby and you can expect the same greeting in return, which too often feels like an entirely lost art in bigger cities. Their warmth is even more impressive considering the city is still recovering from a massive earthquake in 1970 that nearly destroyed the town and led to the loss of thousands of lives. As you can see in the picture above, their main old cathedral is still under renovation from the tragedy.
Huaraz is about an eight-hour bus ride from
Lima. It's the kind of place that can easily get buried in a map, but there's quite a bit to offer in a weekend visit--mostly in the way of natural wonders.
CITY RUNDOWN /
TRAVEL INFO ON HUARAZHuaraz is a fairly sleepy town of 100,000, much of it rather poor. Like much of Peru, the poverty can be painfully staggering. But if you let it possess you too much you might overlook just how comfortably the city cooperates with one another, or how even the poorest indigenous people still can find some kind of livelihood. You might still feel that guilty feeling in the pit of your stomach, being that privileged outsider, but the city wants and embraces tourists, as the sign above indicates. It's never easy to provide perspective on something like this without sounding pretentious, so all I could really do is be thankful and enjoy what good we encountered.
At night is when the city comes alive. Shops open and streets fill. Check out the wares offered by dirt-cheap street vendors, or stop in the city center and sit in the park to relax. There isn't anything in Huaraz's downtown that will leave you starry-eyed, but you probably didn't come here expecting that in the first place--it's a relaxing, easygoing kinda town.
EATING IN HUARAZFood is sometimes unconscionably cheap in Peru, even at some of the more tourist-y locations.
Creperie Patrick has a wide variety of crepe concoctions if you're looking for a good dessert or obscenely sugary breakfast, complete with the faux-rustic glamour of a French bistro soundtracked by 90s alt-rock. It was affordable and delicious with clean bathrooms to boot. Replace "French" with "Italian," "faux-rustic" with "faux-Venice" and "90s alt-rock" with "Footloose soundtrack" and you have
Piccolo, another easy, cheap and tourist-oriented restaurant in the heart of the city. Lastly, while I can't remember the name for the life of me, we dined in a restaurant offering
anticuchos,
Peru's answer to shishkebabs, which come highly recommended wherever you stay in the country. It's heavy on meat, and trying to guess what kind of meat you're eating is all part of the fun.
HOSTAL CAROLINEA driver from Hostal Caroline kindly picked us up from the Huaraz bus station, and that marked the first sign that our living situation would be a pleasurable one. They stored our things and immediately treated us to continental breakfast though we hadn't officially checked in. The minute you sit for breakfast, you're in the midst of dozens of hungry travelers--even if you're alone, it's possible to drink a cup of coffee with someone and rent llamas with them on an excursion through the mountains later that day.
Hostal Caroline is a family-owned North American/European oasis in a pleasant nook of the city where trekkers find refuge. The building is separated into two parts, one of which is being renovated for more private rooms. We stayed in a room among the renovations, and aside from some chillier nights and bouts with the water heater in the shower, it was a steal of a deal--50 soles a night for the room, or about $15. Caroline's staff was knowledgeable, laid-back and always willing to assist you; their familial spirit and warmth seems to carry over to their guests, which you can't put a price on.
TRANSPORT IN HUARAZIt's confusing, but there's a method to the madness. Buses are privately run throughout Peru, meaning there will be a man or woman frequently yelling at you from an open van in the streets. They're not asking you to be willfully kidnapped or to roll up for the Mystery Tour (how I wish). Each mini-bus squeezes in fifteen or so people and they'll shout out the final destination--if they stop near you, you can ask if yours is in between. But it's best to head over to the bus station, situated off the main city drag just by the river, where there's slightly more order and a better chance you get a comfortable seat. The minibuses are cheap--we paid $1 for an hour trip--but they're also a little less safe on mountain roads, so be warned.
Taxis are also widely available and very cheap--you'll usually pay six soles ($2) at most for any trip that's 30 minutes or less. Be wary of non-licensed taxis, however, and
always ask the taxi driver how much it will take to get to your destination before you get in the car, as there are no meters--just negotiated fares.
HUASCARAN NATIONAL PARKThere are many grueling and exciting treks to be made around Huaraz, but probably the easiest (at least in terms of exercise) and certainly one of the more spectacular views is offered at

Huascaran National Park, where the stunning mountain lake Llanganuco resides. In this gorgeous scene from the Cordillera Blanca region, you'll get a pleasant view of the almost comically blue Llanganuco as well as a close-range snapshot of its massive glacier, located a few thousand more feet up. Walk along the trails or rent a rowboat and bask in the magnificence.
A few caveats: We arrived in
Yungay a little confused as to where to get a taxi to the top of the mountain, which takes about another hour. Long story short, after some taxi mishaps and miscommunications, we clearly got scammed. We didn't have enough cash and we were stuck at the lake. If it wasn't for the kindness of a passing tour bus, we might not have made it home that day.
So to conclude this story: Organized tours may seem boring or more expensive, but in this case it would not only have been cheaper but would have saved us an entirely unnecessary and frustrating hassle. Going it alone brought more headaches than we had bargained for, so oftentimes it's smart to ask your hostel rep to help you get on a tour bus.
In all, Huaraz offers a friendly haven for trekkers or shoestring travelers who want a place to relax and admire the scenery offered by the Andes mountains. If you're on an extended stay in Peru, see if you can't set aside a weekend to appreciate Huaraz's small-town charm.